How the World’s Softest Wool is Made

My name is Mati Ventrillon and we are in Fair Isle, Scotland. I’m a crafter, and a knitter I design fair isle garments and sell them online Fair Isle is known in the world as a knitting technique that involves stranded color knitting so is basically carrying two colors together in one row sometimes three It’s called fair isle because it originated here in the island the Shetland wool was known for being one of the softest wools in the world Fair Isle belongs to the Shetland Islands the population of sheep is a lot higher than the human population the making of a fair isle jumper I think it can be divided in two different processes one is the husbandry of the animals and then the other one is the making of the garments. You have a flock of sheep looking after them feeding them make sure that they stay healthy so that you produce a good fleece.

Shearing. I found that the best way to do it is by allowing the sheep to rest on your legs they become very docile and kind of happy animals the moment that becomes like a factory thing the relationship changes completely fleece is spread out you clean any debris any grass you roll it in one little bundle then it sent out to Jameson spinning in mainland Shetland with the Good Shepherd they’re sorted then they’re graded according to the quality of the wool then they get processed get washed it gets sort of pulled apart dyed, spun twisted and then we get the cones the cones get sent normally with the aeroplane from Tingual into Fair Isle.

I receive my yarn with the plane I go and collect it and bring it to my studio and then the process of making the garment begins. It comes the design stage I start printing together colors and patterns and I create swatches once the design is approved then we go into the detailing. the Knitting process starts with producing the ribs taken that weave transferring it into the flatbed knitting machine. I place all my wools and then I start knitting the garment. The Machine reads the solid and color. Front, back, right sleeve, left sleeve. All these panels get put together the sleeves get attached by a technical grafting, it creates an invisible thing The seam gets sown along the slip I produce the neck and then the neck gets grafted into the garment. Once the garment is knitted is the finishing process. Trimming all the insides you have to weave in the end. This is the moment where I can check if there’s been any mistake on the weavings the garment gets washed in 30 degrees temperature put it on the stretcher and the wooly horse to dry. Once it’s dry it gets pressed and labeled.

It’s normally wrapped in brown paper parcel kind of old style with a little string of wool. The knitting belongs to the island. People stop doing it, they leave the island and someone else comes and carries on so feeling that I’m continuing a tradition and preserving a heritage is full of satisfaction .

$399 Suit Vs. $7,900 Suit

– What’s up Evan? – Sup. – You like fashion right? – I do. – Then why do you always look so bad? (chuckles) I’m just kidding. – Bad meaning bad, or bad meaning good? – It’s the one that you want it to be. – Bad. – Will you join me on my suit shopping extravaganza? – Suit. – We’re going New York. That’s not how you get there. We gotta get on a plane. It’s not that, it’s actually that way. – Nope I’m going. – Time to shop til we drop. – Hi. – Oh. (laughs) New York, fashion capital of the United States. – Yes sir. – Today on worth the lifestyle, we’re gonna try three different suit experiences that through drastically different price points and find out which one is the most worth it at it’s price. Worth it. – Suits never go out of style. Every man needs a suit. – And some women too. The first place we’re going to is a place called Suit Supply you’re gonna help me buy a suit. – Okay, what about me? – I mean you can have one too. – Suit up. (cool music) – My name is Nish De Gruiter, I’m the Vice President of Suit Supply USA, we have jackets, casual pants, shirts, all the furnishings.

– So what makes a good suit a good suit? – It should be fit well, it’s all about the interior, if you see people the name boxy suit, it still look very square because the interior is glued on the inside. If you see a proper made suit, breast pocket has a round shape to it, shoulder is a little slim it’s softer, our fabric are from high end Italian mills, Zenya, Barberis, Lo Pia, different colors, show the different price points, so the blue line is opening price point at 399, Suit Supply is a vertically integrative company. A wholesaler or retailer, we cut all those middle men out that’s why we can have a much more attainable price point. There’s always something that we can fit you in for example Havana fit works I think for your broad shoulders well.

– Is that, that’s for me right? – Yeah, (laughs) – We have a tailor who does alterations while you wait. – We have a tailor in the store? – Yes, like an open kitchen. – I like that you can walk in and walk out with a suit the same day. – To determine your size, chest size 40, shirt size 15 and 3/4s. – You have a suit here ready based on those three measurements. – From size 30 to regular all the way through 52 long we have in stock, ready to go.

(groovy music) – Alright come out here Evan, let’s see, oh. – This particular suit, is Havana suit, works well for your broad shoulders, smaller waist. This is really business something more formal, soft shoulder, the sleeve length is perfect here you show just the right amount of cuff, we have a high arm hole, that’s really Italian style. Italians like to hug. – I like to hug. I like to hug Steven. – You want to do a hug test? (laughs) – Hug test. – Let’s do a hug test. – Hug approved. I feel dangerous, – Dangerous? – Yeah, I feel like I might go somewhere and spend all my money. (laughs) – You look pretty fire but it’s my turn. – I think you should go a little more casual, I would go for charcoal gray. – Charcoal gray? – Charcoal gray will be a great color for your skin complexion, will work well with your hair. – Yes. – I will take a 36 suit, I will go for a 14 and 3/4s shirt. – So I’m 36 and you’re 40.

– 40 chest and 30 in the waist. – We need to advertise how much more buff Evan is than I am. (laughs) (smooth music) Oh ho, – This is a great outfit, it should be louder than your personality. – Oh wow, this is very breathable. Even though this is more casual, it’s more different its more unique. – Right. – And I love that about it. – You’re still wearing a suit and it’s very casual, you don’t go out of your comfort zone. – This is amazing, it’s hard to express how I feel right now. I feel like, you need to start treating me serious now. No more of your dumb hugs. This is all business. Pizza time. I think the crazy thing about that suit was how comfortable it was. – The suit jacket Nish gave me, I don’t think I have to alter it. – You’ve never had that kind of suit off the rack fit you so well. – Yeah. – Suit fact, the term bespoke, comes from the 1600s people would go into tailor shops, they’d have the ask for the fabric that was been spoken for that’s where bespoke came from.

That’s what fashion is though, pretty much copying people that look good. – Mm-hmm, it’s like a little bit of word play there. – Word play is more like when you say like, yo my name is Steven and I like to go to. – I’m Evan I come down from heaven. (laughs) – What? Suit number two, are you ready for this? – I’m actually most excited about this. We’ve been prepping ourselves to get fully suited – From an e-commerce site. We used a company called Articles of Style. Apparently this place is legit. – I’m Evan, I come from heaven. – Let’s go to 7Eleven, where you actually came from. (smooth music) – I’m Dan Trepanier, I’m the CEO and creative director. – Hi I’m Will Howe, I’m the COO of Articles of Style. – Articles of style is online luxury men’s wear brands a lot of guys out there are getting very mediocre frustrating experiences with custom e-commerce. Meanwhile in bespoke world, guys are thrilled so can’t we offer a service instead of just an algorithm where you measure yourself. – How are you making these suits? – Everything is made from scratch, based on that one client.

We found Southwyck, the oldest tailoring factory in America. At the factory what you’ll see for example in addition to a lot of other things is a digital pattern making. Printing your pattern. It’s laser cutting the fabric, then basting the garments together for assembly, so setting sleeves, they’re removing the base stitching when the garments done, they measure it to make sure it’s exactly what we ordered. And if it’s more than an eighth of an inch off, we have to redo it. So you fill out your physical profile on our website, we then figure out your estimated measurements, cut a custom try on just for you and send you that, take pictures in the try ons, upload them to your account, you have an opportunity to write feedback so you guys write a novel and in there.

– That’s gonna be this guy right here. – I’m gonna write a novel in there. – Right, I mean you gave us specific measurements. – Super detailed feedback. – That’s great, you know what you want, you know. You want for example, a very small leg hole which isn’t uncommon. – Gotta be specific right? – Yeah. (laughs) – I don’t even know what a leg hole is. – It’s the circumference at the very bottom of the pants. – It’s called the opening. – Gotcha. Okay. – If you’re telling us nothing, you’re trusting us for the expertise and if you’re telling us a ton that makes our job easier because we know how to cut the garment to your preference already. – This is the moment of truth. – Should we try ’em on? – If you guys get this right, I’m coming back to the store, (laughs) (smooth music) alright here we go. Oh shoot.

I really don’t recognize myself right now. This thing is just, throwing me off right here. This has never seen the sun. – This is a luxury fabric, it’s linen and silk, primarily silk actually, you’re a really slim guy right, so you probably often have really big shoulders on your jackets and we cut a really high arm hole, so if you have a slim biceps, that makes a big difference. – I have toned biceps. (laughs) – That’s slim. What’s really driving the comfort of the jacket is the no shoulder pads at all, so it’s really a shirt shoulder. And it’s really lightweight construction to your chest, so it’s really just like something you can throw on, and the trouser you picked was a cotton cashmere blend, so it’s really, really soft fabric as well. – Is there a name I can, an alter ego I can have when I wear this? Steven, Steve! – Steve. – Steve.

– Yo Steve is out. – Hug test. (laughs) hug approved. – It’s your turn. – Let’s go. – You’re not gonna look as good as me. – Let’s go. (groovy music) Oh wow. First of all, got the 12 inches, right length, shoulder width, everything fits perfectly. – You’re a harder fit than Steven is, mainly because you’re really big in the shoulders, strong chest, but really narrow waist, you’re wearing like a 31, 32 pant and like a 41, 42 jacket. Which is a 10 inch drop, that’s impressive. – I work hard for it. (laughs) – So you really benefit from the unpadded shoulder because you already got all this meat up here, you can’t really buy a suit off the rack so a guy like you is extra blown away.

– What do you think Steven? What do you think Steve? (laughs) – I mean, you look fine. (laughs) (fun music) – Yeah, hug approved. (smooth music) – Cut, cut, next place. (laughs) what is it with you and the 12 inch leg whole man? – You gotta know what you want when it comes to suits. – It’s true, from never having met me, to getting a suit that fit that perfectly, I was pretty amazed. – That’s probably the most impressive part about Articles of Style. – Yeah. – Hands down. Suit fact. – Oh my god. Did you know men have buttons on the right side and women have buttons on the left side. So the theory goes that men had to go to battle and wars so they had to be able to suit up very quickly and most people are right handed.

For women the thought is that women were wealthier so people would help them put it on, so you’d actually have it backwards ’cause you know the person helping you would, – I see. – Be right handed and could do the other side. – But if you’re a right handed woman and you’re a left handed man (laughs) you’re in trouble. – In battle, you’re screwed. We’re going to gentlemen by the name of Leonard Logsdail. We started from a retail store, and then we went down to a smaller e-commerce site and now we’re down to one man. – So we’re trimming down the number of people we have.

– Interesting yeah. – It is interesting. – The more you spend the less people who work on it. Hmm. – Hmm. (soft music) – My name’s Leonard Logsdail. I’m a tailor here in New York City with my son Leonard, he’s been working with me for about four years and he’s learning the trade from me and today we’re going to talk about production of a handmade suit and measure you for one as well. – Amazing. It’s me by the way. – It’s all you man. – If you like we can do a comparison between a good body and a bad body. (laughs) – You hear that. – From a tailoring point of view, people will look at him and say well he’s got a great body but from my point of view it’s actually quit difficult, the shoulders a 40, it’s about 3/4 of an inch lower on the right hand side, its understanding the nuances of the body and then being able to interpret that from a plain piece of brown paper when I construct the paper pattern.

– What is bespoke, what is a bespoke tailor do. – When you get buy something off the rack it’s made for everybody and no one in particular. We do it completely the other way around. I’ve got 45 years of experience of understanding men’s bodies, many clients say to me that I understand their bodies more than their wives do. Because when you come in three months later I can tell if you’ve put on a couple of pounds or taken a couple of pounds off. – We make the suites ourselves on site, garments cut here, our jacket maker makes about two a week. It takes about 60 or 70 hours of hand work put into it. – Very labor intensive. – And how did you guys get to where you are now? – Well I think it’s the heart that goes into it.

I built up a business in London. I moved out here in 1991. There were probably about 50 or 60 old Italian fabulous tailors in the United States have all died off. – So this suit you made right here. – I did yeah, I made all those clothes for all the guys from Wolf of Wall Street. – No way. – One of the reasons that I get the movie work from the tailors here is because if you want something 1970s with a flared pair of trousers and big pockets I can do that for you. – How much is a suit that you make and then what defines the cost of that? – The skill of moving and stretching and shrinking and feeling the fabric in your fingers takes a long time and when you’re charging a lot for a suit I’m not gonna do it until you’re ready for it, a two piece suit starts at 7900 dollars. Probably the lowest quality we make is a super 120s with cashmere and then we move on up from there to a Vicuna suit which probably cost about 30,000 dollars ’cause the cloth is very rare.

– They found a way to shear it and they stay alive. – I want a suit, maybe for my wedding? – We can do that for you. – Okay so I have not proposed to her yet, but I’m thinking about it. – Well she might hear it now so. – She will hear it. – So are you gonna get married on the west coast, the east coast? What time of year? Are you more of a conservative type of person or do you want something that’s got a little bit of oomph to it? (laughs) – I hadn’t even thought about that. – We need to know this because if you’re gonna get married in Alaska in the winter, I can’t show you some of these fabrics. – Gotcha, I like a little bit of flair yeah. – So this is a Super 130s and it’s beautiful. – That’s great. – And it’s beautiful, feel the fabric so that means it’s going to be comfortable to wear, now we have to decide what style of suit you want. Do you like more of the modern style, like a shorter jacket and a tight pair of pants? – I would love to go with what you’re advising.

– So we’ll go two buttons on the front. The pink lapel means you thought about pants, we’re gonna make them with no pleats. You use your back pockets? – I do, and I heard it’s bad for your back to put a wallet in your back pocket. – If you’ve got a lot of money in it yeah. (laughs) and then we’ll start the measurements and the body figurations. 38 and a half. – 38 and a half yeah that’s what I’m talking about Evan, got some gains. – And we’ll cut the suit out after that. – How long will it take, you said at least three fittings? – Depends, sometimes if I do my job correctly, the first time we could do it in one, sometimes I need two, sometimes I need three but I will not let the suit go out the door until I’m happy with it.

My plan is for Ying to look at you on her wedding day and really decide that you’re the one. (elegant music) – Alright man. That. Wow, dude that looks so good. I’m not used to this. This navy color looks really really good on you. You should start wearing this everyday actually so I can take you seriously. (laughs) – Dude it looks so clean, okay. And my favorite part of this suit, the back of it is like perfectly shaped for my back.

I look like a body builder. – Oh wow, yeah. I see you. – I see you. I’m used to feeling fabric pull at me in certain places. I don’t feel that here. Oh yeah, see that. The insides transcription, see this phrase, it’s from my mom. I don’t know how to describe this any more man it’s so, it’s so perfect. – A perfect suit is when I’m working with a client and I look in the mirror and I see the look on his face is when you’re happy when you walk out the door.

(playful music) – Hug approved. Thank you for taking me shopping, why did just grab your bicep? (laughs) Evan Ghang, which suit is the most worth it at it’s price for you. – Suit Supply is probably my go to place when I want to buy suits. – If you need a suit tomorrow, that will fit you very nicely, Suit Supply, and it’ll look great. – But I have to say it’s the Articles of Style.

They found that middle ground where everything just meets perfectly and the fact that I’ve never met them before and they got the suits down perfectly that’s already a winner for me honestly. – I thought I was gonna go with Articles of Style, I guess I’m a fancy boy ’cause I’m going with Leonard Logsdail. – What? – He doesn’t cut corners, well he does on suits. Ha ha ha ha. It’s not about the money, it’s not about the time, it’s not about anything, it’s about getting the product correct and I look up to people like that. – You looked really, really good in that suit. – Alex, who was your Worth It winner? I must have looked really good in that suit. – This guy. – That wraps it up for our season two of Worth it Lifestyle. Thank you guys for watching, it’s like because of you guys watching now we can make these videos so we out. – Peace. – Can I do one more thing? So in the first location that we did for this video at Suit Supply, we were told that of this thing called a hug test, I’m just gonna give you a hug.

– Come on in. – Hug approved .