7 Men’s Summer Shoe Mistakes & What Shoes To Wear

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! Today we’ll discuss 7 summer shoes mistakes that most men make summer changes our wardrobes and it’s fun to go along with the seasons but when it comes to shoes, summer shoes are really just for summer and so they’re inherently different to the shoes that you can wear during spring, fall, and winter. Of course, people can wear absolutely anything today and trust me, they do. But as a gentleman, there’s certain classic style rules that help make you look well put together even during the peak heat of summer.

Mistake number one, wearing sandals or flip-flops for anything other than very specific outdoor occasions. Sorry, gentlemen, but if you’re serious about your outward appearance, wearing sandals or flip-flops on a regular basis is simply not in the cards unless you’re rafting or walking in a rocky riverbed. You should never wear sandals; the same is true for flip-flops, they’re really best at the pool or by the beach but otherwise, don’t show up with them at a restaurant. Ultimately, no one wants to see your hairy toes and calluses and that aside, I’ve never come across a really super high-quality pair of flip-flops or sandals that just had piles of craftsmanship in them.

The second mistake is wearing sporty trainers with your trousers and elegant summer outfits. It simply doesn’t go together. Trainers are fine if you ride your bike or go to and from the gym or workout in them but outside of that, there’s really no place for them in your general wardrobe. Nothing makes you look like an old grandpa than white trainers with white tennis socks so just skip them and put on proper summer shoes. The third mistake is not understanding the difference between driving mocs, loafers, and boat shoes. All three of those are great summer shoes because they are slip ons where you’re after tying if so it’s not just convenient but usually they also have deeper cutouts which is exposed your ankle more to the air which gives a nice flow that is cooler than wearing other regular lace-up shoes now what’s the difference between those three shoe types loafers are considered to be the most formal one out of the three you can wear the most slacks with seersucker x’ even a seersucker suit or even a railer suit except if it’s double-breasted then loafers are typically not appropriate but double-breasted is not advisable through hot summers anyways so you’re good here sometimes people even since we were in them barefoot however I don’t suggest that if you want to go for the barefoot look always go with no-show socks it’s much better for your feet and for the hygiene and it makes you more comfortable in your shoes all day next step down in firm melody are driving marks if you want to listen something a little more formal go with a penny loafer a little less casual go with it’s hassle over I like sweet for summer shoes because they’re casual and you can even go in more exotic colors so just maybe gray navy blue or dark green driving marks are a step down in terms of formality they’re usually worn inside the house or while driving but during the summer a lot of people were done just on the street very soft they’re comfortable but with the typical sole that is not solid rubber you probably wear them out prematurely if you wear them outside of the house or your car finally boat shoes are the least formal a classic staple would be a medium chestnut brown if you want to be a little brighter you can go with blues or salmon reds maybe green and blue combinations it’s a fun shoe if you adhere to the kind of waspey northeastern American style the first mistake is buying sewed formal shoes from the uppers such as Darby’s Oxford’s or wingtip brokes that are then combined with colorful trainer soles we get it summer is more casual and it also reflects in your shoe board that being said it’s wiser to play with the colors and letter materials but keeping the letter Sol then switching to a kind of rubber sole that is green or yellow or red yes it makes you stand out in a way but it’s more clownish than tasteful that being said rubber soles wear it much more quickly you can just replace them very easily and so it’s not a really good long-term investment instead buy a classic leather sole or a classic rubber sole and make a change of the uppers it’s a much better investment The fifth mistake is buying sneakers and using them to masquerade other shoes by that I mean people try to buy leather sneakers that are more expensive and nicer and so all of a sudden they think they can wear it for business casual or with a suit and it just looks odd and it’s not meant to be worn in that way the sixth mistake is to pack away all of your other shoes from your closet and simply use the specific summer shoes now yes you want specific summer shoes at the same time you can still get out your old brown loafers for example that you can wear in spring and maybe in the fall or you’re sweet desert boots those are all good shoes that you can utilize also during the summer so it pays to go through your shoe closet and yes you can set aside your black Oxford’s or the triple salt boots because that’s not something you wear during the summer but Brown Jones maybe reddish tones and sweat letters are great for summer combinations last but not least one of the biggest summer shoe mistakes is not owning a fun pair of distinct summer shoes they’re really lots of ways to have fun even with a classic men’s shoe wardrobe and that can include a white pair of buckskin shoes with colorful shoe laces for example and in general if you want to spice things up and you can’t quite afford to invest a lot in summer shoes just going with colorful shoe laces Really change the whole feel and the look of the shoes and you will immediately look summery with a very small investment for a large selection of round and flat high-quality waxed cotton shoelaces in over 15 different colors please check our shop here they’re all made from Fort Belvedere and they come in packages so the more you buy the less expensive they get alternatively if you’re looking for shoes look for a woven leather shoe or maybe something with a perforated leather because that will allow more air to get to your foot so you sweat less and you’re more comfortable if you like softer shoes maybe a pair of colorful boat shoes or driving locks or something to invest in apart from lighter desert boots that are unlined and actually very low I suggest you invest in a pair of green shoes because Green is really underrated especially for summer lately I’ve seen it much more come up in suits and sport coats and even shirts but for shoes it’s still not really popular and it’s particularly good in a darker shade such as for a screen or maybe olive green and with a suede texture apart from that classic spectators can work as well although the black and white spectators work I think brown and white are better suited for summer because it’s a less stark contrast and it just goes weather with the warmth outside if you want to learn more about different shoe types such as loafers or boat shoes Oxford’s Darby’s the differences please check out our in-depth guides on the website and if you are interested in summer suits or to eight hallmarks of a great summer jacket please subscribe to our Channel and stuff like this comes right here in box also use a search function because we have a lot of things about summer and hot weather in today’s Africa combination with an off-white jacket that has Center box pleats which makes it easy to move around it’s made out of a thicker coarser Panama weave fabric it’s from Ralph Lauren purple label and I’m combining it with a light blue open weave summery shirt and a mattr silk tie in dark bottle green with blue or yellow accents Fort Belvedere it matches the green belt as well as my green shoes which are made out of suede leather and are a wingtip Oxford from Scott Oh so to make it a little more summer without being too bright I edit dark purple shoelaces that contrast shoes work with a summery theme but they’re not super loud measures a barrel cuffs because cufflinks would be simply too hot and so I’m wearing a little pinky ring with malachite which picks up the green color just like the pocket square which ties together the green tones of a tie and a shoe as well as the light blue of the shirt Nasir Sakura trousers because the shoes are colorful and seersucker is bright I opted for a dark pair of over the calf Khan socks in navy with clocks because contrasts a shoe as well as the pants and creates a nice combination to learn more about how to combine shoes pants and socks police check out this free PDF guide and if you’re interested in all the four bail deer accessories showcase in this video you can find them in our shop here

Should You Wear Denim Jeans With A Suit Jacket Or Blazer?

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! Have you ever asked yourselves, should I wear a jacket with jeans? Is it too formal, is it just right? Well in today’s video we’ll talk about nothing but jeans, blazers and suit jackets. When you can wear them, when you should avoid them and anything else you want to know about those combinations. Obviously it’s a very similar question to can I wear a jacket without a tie and we discussed it in a separate video here.

When should you wear a jacket with denim is a popular question because many men today wear it, yet it goes against traditional style rules because jeans used to be strictly blue-collar workwear. Today, men’s style is a lot more casual than it used to be 50 or 60 years ago and jeans are probably the number one worn pants by men. As everything gets more casual of course a lot of men try to wear jeans with anything else they have in their wardrobe particularly suit separates because that’s what they sometimes have to wear to work.

In an attempt to dress up their jeans or to dress down their suit they simply combine the two but it rarely works and it hardly ever looks advantageous unless you follow a few clear-cut rules. The issue of suit jackets with jeans is that it is a clash of formalities. Typically it’s a combination seen worn by middle managers who want to seem approachable yet be a cut above their subordinates.

It’s definitely a fine line to walk but dressing purposefully and thoughtfully is the key here. Personally I hardly ever wear jeans with a jacket, it’s simply not my style. But here is how you can pull it off. First of all pair your blazer or sport coat only with your dressiest jeans. That means no holes and no used look. Also it’s really important that you have enough contrast between your sport coat and your jeans. If you have a dark washed denim with a dark navy blazer it’s not enough contrast and it looks odd because it’s similar yet it’s not a suit and it’s just weird. So in general, a medium dark wash or something slightly lighter is best. It’s essential that your jeans don’t puddle and are hemmed to the exactly right length. To learn more about what length is right for you, check out this video here.

In terms of cut, a straight leg or maybe something that slightly tapered works best. Definitely avoid really baggy cuts as well as a bootcut. Also don’t cuff or pin roll your jeans because that’s simply too casual. If you still want to learn how to do it please check out this video here. Two, rather than going with a navy blazer instead branch out and maybe go with jackets that have different colors as well as patterns and materials because that’s more contrasting or interesting, but also more casual and it works better with jeans.

Good features include notch lapels because peak lapels would be too formal. You can also have patch pockets because they’re more formal than jetted pockets or flat pockets. In terms of patterns, you can go with little houndstooth pattern maybe a small micro check or a classic Prince of Wales check. When it comes to material compositions, 100% wool is okay but to make it more casual add cotton and linen blends sometimes wool linen or wool cotton blends or sometimes also a little bit of silk or cashmere for a softer hand and touch. In terms of jacket colors, you can go with lighter shades of blue, maybe a royal blue for example or even a lighter blue. Overchecks could be in red or an orange because that’s a little more casual. In the winter brown tones are great especially as a Glen check with dark brown and off-white or maybe a herringbone jacket in a medium brown. With all those lighter colors, one pair of dark washed denim really works best because it provides a contrast and it’s a classic jeans color.

The personal favorite of mine is the color green it goes really well with dark washed denim. And to learn more about why green is underrated in menswear, please check out this video here. Also definitely avoid white or off-white jackets because the denim will color off on it and the contrast is too strong. Three, make sure to wear your denim and your sport coat with casual shirts to bridge the gap formalities. Long-sleeve dress shirts are good but ideally you should avoid the most formal variations in solid white because they’re just too businesslike.

Instead maybe you go with an off-white or a green shirt maybe something with a rougher texture and maybe skip ironing to create a more casual look. Alternatively you can also go with button-down collars because they are more casual and check shirts, as well as little houndstooth shirts because they’re also more casual than solids. If you want something like a solid I suggest an Oxford fabric with a two-tone maybe light blue and white because it’s durable and more casual. No matter what shirt you choose always tuck it in because an untucked shirt with a sport coat or a suit jacket simply looks odd. Four, wear the combination of jeans and sport coat with the right kind of shoes. Black Oxfords are way too formal and not appropriate here. At the same time boat shoes are too informal and should likewise be avoided. So what should you wear? Ideally go with brown tones or burgundy and oxblood. If you want to be a little more experimental you can think about olive green, grey or maybe navy. In terms of styles a classic derby shoe is good just like those burgundy derbies or these olive green derbies on a very Parisian elegant last.

Because of the color it makes them work with a jeans and a sport coat. Alternatively you could opt for loafers either tassel loafers or penny loafers, both work. Another good options are monk straps such as those brown single monks with some broguing and a wingtip or those more fashion-forward double monks in burgundy. If you want to go with oxfords go with brogues either half brogues or full brogues because that’s casual enough to wear with jeans and it ties the ensemble together with your sport coat. Other good options include chukka boots or chelsea boots. In terms of leather texture, suede is really great to combine with jeans and a sport coat. Why? Simply because it’s a little more casual. It’s less serious and as such it ties together those two elements of different formalities So now that you know how and when to wear a blazer with jeans, the question is, when should you not wear those two items together? First of all the biggest mistake I see men make in this situation is that they pair a traditional business suit with a pair of jeans they have.

Particularly it’s that black business suit jacket or that pinstripe jacket that they wear with dark blue jeans and it just looks weird and odd. As discussed before, while some suit jackets can be worn with jeans especially if they’re more casual any kind of business suit should not be combined with jeans, that includes solid navy jackets or maybe solid grey jackets but also any kind of stripe, pinstripe, rope stripe or chalk stripe. They won’t look good with jeans. Don’t combine jeans with a double-breasted business jacket. Double-breasted is typically more formal. It has peak lapels and as such is even more formal than a single breasted blazer with patch pockets. Hence, avoid. However in recent years double-breasted jackets have become a lot more popular especially at Pitti Uomo. And if you have something that has a nice linen blend maybe with the Prince of Wales pattern and lighter colors, you can definitely combine them with jeans. Never wear a t-shirt with jeans underneath a jacket because it’s a clash of formalities. Either you wear just a t-shirt and some jeans and you skip the jacket all together or you opt for the jacket but you go with a casual dress shirt or this blend of polo shirt and dress shirt I mentioned before.

Four, never wear any kind of black shoes especially not black dress shoes with this combination because it looks out of place. Black is fine for formal business suits and office wear but not when you were jeans. Instead go with browns, tan tones, burgundy tones, greens or anything else but not black. To learn why black is one of the most overrated colors in menswear, please check out this video here.

Five, jeans with a jacket are not ideal if you want to wear a tie, a bow tie or maybe an ascot simply because it would be too formal and a clash. So if you opt for the combination of jacket and jeans forgo your tie and your neck wear instead go with a pocket square or maybe a boutonniere because that creates a visual interest and it just creates for a more polished look. For a selection of pocket squares that are perfect to be worn with jeans and a sport coat please check out our store here. You’ll also find boutonnieres there that will just round out your outfit. Six, you don’t want to wear jeans with a jacket if you want to have a formal dress shirt. That means, double cuffs with cufflinks because that’s too formal for regular cotton denim. Likewise, a solid white shirt is not appropriate.

A light blue might work. Maybe go with a different texture, a different weave that is more open so it breathes better and you’re more comfortable during the summer. Striped shirts can work especially if you have bolder stripes, wider or larger scale stripes or maybe stripes in a different color. At the same time the whole ensemble has to work together. And we’ll cover the specific skill of combining patterns especially stripes in a different video. Don’t wear jeans and a sport coat if you don’t know the dress code or if you’re unsure about the formality at the event or the occasion you will wear it to. Why you might wonder? Well, if you’re not sure about a dress code it always pays to dress one notch up.

In that case it would mean wearing your blazer with a pair of chinos rather than your jeans. Alternatively if you think that’s over-the-top you can skip the jacket and just go with a casual dress shirt and a pair of slacks either chinos or jeans depending on what you think is right for the occasion. By the way during the colder months of the year, a tweed jacket works really well with jeans simply because it’s more casual by definition.

It has a coarser weave. It has more warmer earth tones and so it’s a great jacket that is usually single breasted and has notch lapels which makes it again less formal and therefore perfectly suited for jeans. That being said there are tons of other jackets which are less formal and therefore equally as well suited to jeans as a tweed jacket. Some of them include a Panama jacket which is more of a summery jacket. Another one, the Harrington jacket and you can check out more in our Harrington jacket guide here. So in conclusion, you can definitely wear a jacket with jeans just make sure it’s casual enough and not your typical business suit.

When it comes to foot wear, brown shoes are your friend and make sure it’s not too casual but also not too formal. In today’s video I’m wearing a combination of dark wash denim jeans and a suit jacket which is part of a Prince of Wales suit with a slight brown over check. Obviously there’s a lot of contrast between the jacket and so it works. I combined it with a cream or off-white dress shirt. It has button cuffs, no French cuffs.

And I also decided to leave them undone because it’s a little warmer outside and it simply adds a more casual flare to your overall ensemble. Of course I skipped the necktie and instead I went with a very casual pocket square which is made out of a handcrafted linen with hand rolled edges and X stitches. You can find a rich selection of those pocket squares in this color or others in our shop here. For my shoes I opted for a reddish chestnut brown monk strap with silver buckles and a wingtip full brogue and I combined it with a belt in the same kind of color tone which is alligator and also has a silver buckle so everything is harmonious and works. For my socks I opted for a pair of Fort Belvedere socks in navy blue and yellow because they provide a bit of contrast to the shoe as well as the jeans yet they tie everything well together.

To learn more about how you can combine shoes with socks and pants, please check out this video here. If you enjoyed this video give us a like and subscribe to this channel so videos like this come right to your inbox. .

Wool SUPER Numbers Explained – What Do Suit Fabric Super 100s, 180s… Mean?

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! In today’s video, we’ll be discussing what the term “super” means in relation to worsted wool suits and how it does and doesn’t determine suit quality. Generally speaking, worsted wool is the most popular fabric for men’s suits around the world and while there are technically many fabrics that fall into the definition of worsted, there are subtle differences in classification among them. One of these determining factors is the wool’s so-called super number. You may be familiar with seeing terms like super 120s or super 180s on online retail pages or in fabric swatch books but what exactly does the term super mean in relation to worsted wool? Before we can answer that question, let’s talk a bit more generally about what qualifies as worsted wool.

The term worsted can alternately describe either a combed yarn, a fabric made from a combed yarn, or a weight of yarn. A combed yarn, by the way, is made when wool fibers are rotated by metal combs that align the long fibers while discarding these short staple fibers. The result is a long lasting fine and smooth yarn with a somewhat glossy finish. Also, by adjusting the pull of these combs on the wool, one can get lighter or heavier yarns whereas varying the twists will impact the look, feel, and strength of the yarn. Tight twisting provides a crisper feel whereas loose twisting makes for a softer but weaker yarn. One quick note here to answer the question of why it’s called worsted wool in the first place. The names origin dates all the way back to the 12th century when the English city of worsted in Norfolk along with a few other cities in the area became a manufacturing center of cloth and cloth weaving and to answer another general question, is a lighter worsted wool better than a heavier weight? The answer not necessarily no.

Let’s take an overcoat as an example of this principle; while a softer fabric would feel more pleasant on one’s skin, a heavier coat made of something like Donegal tweed is going to be much more sturdy and keep you more warm than a lighter and softer cashmere coat would. Of course, you’re not often going to be wearing an overcoat against your bare skin but this illustrates the principle that the heavier weight is going to be sturdier than the lighter weight even if the lighter weight is softer.

Similarly, you might be under the impression that a lighter weight weave is going to be cooler to wear and a heavier weight would be warmer but this isn’t always the case either. Something that’s heavy but relatively open in its weave like a fresco fabric, for instance, is going to feel much cooler when worn than something that’s tightly woven and lighter like a super 150s fabric, for instance. Of course, the interlining and canvas of a jacket are going to have an impact on how hot it feels while you’re wearing it but that’s a subject for another video. With all that said though, fabrics that are commonly available today are just going to be lighter in general than fabrics that were produced 30 or 40 years ago or even more.

This will be readily apparent to you if you visit a thrift store and pick out an old suit. It’s probably just going to be heavier than something you’d buy today. Speaking of tweed overcoats though, you can take a look at our video and related article on the fascinating history of the tweed fabric here. It’s important to keep in mind then that a lighter fabric with a higher super number is not a hallmark of a better fabric, it just indicates that the fibers used were thinner in diameter. Similarly, the super number doesn’t provide any information about the weave or how heavy the fabric is. One more thing to touch on before we get into the particulars of what supers measure though and that’s how they came to be in the first place. You might be surprised to learn that the wool that goes into a great many suits that are produced around the world today comes from sheep that are descended from just two rams and four ewes. In 1789, King Charles the fourth of Spain gifted six sheep to the Dutch East India Company; these sheep were then shipped to South Africa.

In 1795, a British immigrant to Australia named John McArthur bought 26 of the offspring of these original six sheep and transported them back to botany bay. These 26 sheep were then bred to form the backbone of what’s now the Australian wool industry that has sheep that now number more than one hundred and twenty million. The wool from these sheep produced in grades between 60s and 80s around this time, essentially measuring how fine the yarns were, was top of the line. As such, most of it went directly to tailors on Savile Row. 100s grade wool meanwhile was thought to be unattainable at this time in history. Until the wool mill of Joseph Lumbs and Sons in Huddersfield West Yorkshire England was finally able to produce some of it.

Lumb bought enough of this wool for an entire year’s supply and brought it to market under the term Lumb’s Huddersfield super 100s thus super terminology for worsted wool suits was born. At this time in the late 18th century, British wool merchants would often refer to their wares by largely subjective terminology in describing how fine the wool was; terms like low, medium, fine, the newly created super, and so on. But because producers and consumers eventually wanted terminology that was more objective in how the wool was rated, the city of Bradford, England led the way in grading wool more objectively. This process became known as the English worsted yarn count system or more generally, the Bradford system. Fast forward now to 1968 when the USDA created the United States standards for grade wool, this assigned ranges of average fiber diameter or AFD and maximum standard deviation to the previously set up Bradford count. So with these standardization systems in place, super still sits as the top designation for how fine a wool may be.

With that said, some companies have gotten a little subjective again in exactly how they’re grading their super wools. So for example, a super 200s wool from one manufacturer might be a bit different in how fine it is from a super 200s wool from another manufacturer. Things are generally going to be fairly consistent, overall. When we’re discussing reputable manufacturers of high quality, most of them are going to abide by the guidelines set out in the fabric labeling code of practice from the International Wool Textile Organization or IWTO. So to recap then, what the super number is actually measuring is how fine the wool is because what’s being measured is how many times each of the individual woollen yarns have been twisted around.

Generally then, the higher the super number is, the finer the cloth in question will be. Often, this means it will also be lighter but as we said earlier, this isn’t always the case. How fine these woolen yarns are is typically measured in micrometers also called microns. We’ve got a detailed chart for how each super number corresponds to a micron measurement in the corresponding article on our website you can find that here.

So a higher super number will mean that a fabric is going to be softer to the touch and generally will feel more like luxurious. Conversely, a lower super number will mean that the cloth is more sturdy and probably warmer. As we’ve said, it will generally be heavier but not always. While it’s commonly believed that the super number of a given fabric also has something to do with its individual thread count, this simply isn’t true and there’s not a correlation between the two measurements. While a higher super number does to some extent denote the exclusivity of a given fabric, because something like a super 200s would contain some of the rarest wool fibers available, this is only an indication of that exclusivity and rarity, not necessarily subjective quality. Here’s another important note, the full word “super” can only be applied to fabrics made of pure new wool. Also, fabrics made with wool blended with other things like cashmere, alpaca, silk, or so on can use the slightly related S designation, though not the full word super.

Now you may be wondering, how do these super numbers translate into considerations for wearing? Stated simply, anything with a higher super number is going to be more temperamental and hard to care for over time. The thinner, finer fibers of a wool with a high super number may have an amazing hand which is to say how soft they feel to the touch but they’re also going to break down much more quickly than a heftier fiber would.

As an example here, something like a super 180s wool would probably feel softer on the body whereas something like a super 100s wool is going to be more durable, less prone to wrinkling, and probably better suited for repeated everyday wear. On that note, snags in finer fabrics happen much more frequently and are also far more difficult to repair than a snag in a comparatively coarse fabric. Speaking generally then, it’s our opinion that it’s best not to get overly caught up in the super numbers of your worsted wool suits. Very good quality suits can be created from wool in the super 100s to super 150s range and even below that, and of course, a suit that is well fitted to the wearer’s body is going to look great regardless of what the super number might be or even if it doesn’t have one. Conversely, something in a super 180s or super 220s wool is still going to look sloppy if it doesn’t fit your frame well.

On that note you can take a look at two videos on how a suit should properly fit here. Finally today, we’ve got a few general guidelines for you if you really do want to pay close attention to the super numbers of your suits and how you could wear them effectively. For standard everyday wear, you could go with something with a pretty low super number. Something that’s below 100 up to a super 100s or super 120s, for example. For an important business meeting, a conference, or something that’s a bit more important than the average day-to-day at the office, you could go with something like a super 130s or super 150s and for special events, you could go with something like a super 180s or anything above that.

Again, these are just hypothetical suggestions. If you really do want to pay attention to your super number, of course, you could wear a suit made from a different material entirely than worsted wool and still look good or you could wear a worsted suit that doesn’t even have a registered super number. You just have to make sure that the suit is fitting you well and flattering your form. In conclusion then, while the super number of a worsted wool can be handy in determining how fine and soft the yarns of a given wool are, it shouldn’t be used as the only measure of quality in wool suiting. Remember to focus first on fit then determine if you really like the look of the suit and how often you think you will wear it.

From this point, you can consider the super number. So which part of today’s explanation did you find most intriguing? And if you are one of those men that pays attention to the super number of your suits, do you have a favorite number? Ahare with us in the comment section below and as always don’t forget to subscribe to the channel and hit the little bell icon so these videos will come straight to your inbox in today’s video I am wearing a wool suit but to illustrate the concept that super numbers aren’t everything this wool suit doesn’t even have a super grade still I like the look of it and I think it fits my frame well so it’s one that I wear relatively often the suit is charcoal in color and it has a slight bit of texture to its weave technically it’s actually a three-piece suit but I more often wear it as a two-piece because I find that it fits me better that way still I wouldn’t be surprised if you see the three-piece configuration on the channel eventually I’ve paired the suit today with a pastel pink shirt from Charles Tyrwhitt as pink and charcoal are a classic combination you can take a look at our article on wearing pink in menswear here the shirt has French cuffs and I’m wearing in them today the platinum plated sterling silver eagleclaw cufflinks from Fort Belvedere with carnelian as the stone the red tones of the carnelian harmonized well with the pink of the shirt also from Fort Belvedere today is my tie which is a Prince of Wales Glen check tie in silk featuring the colors of Burgundy black and white the burgundy is a little bit faint but when viewed in conjunction with the pink shirt you can see that they harmonize well similarly the black and white complement the charcoal in my suit my pocket square is white Irish linen from Fort Belvedere and my boutonniere is the mini pink carnation all of these accessories are available in the Fort Belvedere shop and you can find them by going here given that I’m wearing a suit today the trousers and the jacket match exactly so I’ve gone for something simple and also worn charcoal socks that are fairly close in color to the trousers and the outfit is rounded out today by my black cap toe derbys.

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Hermes Ties – Is It Worth It? Or Is A $180 Hermès Tie Too Expensive?

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! In today’s video, we discuss whether Hermès ties are worth it. We talk about the famous printed ties with animal prints, horse prints, the woven ones as well as scarf ties, the pros and cons, and whether they’re worth your $180 or not. In a world of iconic menswear, men’s ties are certainly up there with the Burberry trench coat which by the way, you want to know if a Burberry trench coat is worth it or not ,please check out this video here. Generally, you know you’re doing something right even an entire industry is here to fake your products and that’s the case with Hermès ties.

Finding a used one is almost like a gamble if you don’t know what to look for and stay tuned for another video where we discuss how you can identify a fake Hermès tie from a genuine one. For this video, we’ll assume you buy one directly from Hermès so you know what you get is the real deal. In the US, Hermès ties have a price tag of a $180. In Europe, it’s a little less. In Australia, it’s a little more but overall, it’s right around that price point. By the way, the brand is called Hermès , not HERMIS and to learn more about how to pronounce luxury brands please check out this video here. In order to be able to determine if an Hermes tie is worth it or not, we briefly have to take a look at the history of the house. Hermès is a brand who was founded in 1837 by the German born Thierry Hermès . Initially, it was a manufacturer of harnesses and Brittles for the carriage trade. By 1855, they won their first prize for their quality merchandise and soon thereafter, they would start to expand their products and include things like saddle and leather goods.

Now I could fill hours with the intricate history of Hermes but in terms of ties and silk, the home of the Hermès silk since 1937 has been the city of Lyon. The first silk design Hermes created was actually not for a tie but for a scarf. They are probably even more famous for women than the ties are for men. They’re typically in 70 centimeters by 70 centimeters. The very first pattern showed some women playing a game; the pattern was called Dames Blanches. In 1978, the fifth generation of family owners came in and Jean-Louis Dumas became the chairman of Hermès as well as the creative director. Under his reign, Hermès switched to focus on silk products, leather goods, and ready-to-wear goods. Over the years, Hermès has produced thousands of designs and they’ve become iconic, very recognized and worn by Wall Street bankers, London businessmen, Russian oligarchs, or emerging Chinese upper-class men.

So with that being said, is an Hermes tie worth $180? Well, first we have to determine what you get for that money. The tie production, especially for the printed ties, is vertically integrated. Hermès has their own silkworm plantations in southern Brazil and there they control the spinning of the yarn, the weaving of the yarn, the designs of the silk, the printing, as well as the sales, all the way to the customer.

All designs are exclusively designed for Hermes and you can’t find them elsewhere unless they’re knockoffs of course. Every season, 10 new ones are added as well as old ones are reissued and overall, they’ve probably created more than 75,000 different color schemes. So between the designs and the colors, there’s really a rich archive. Hermès is known for their printed ties especially for their often whimsical animal print ties, horse-inspired prints, as well as geometrical prints, and small micropatterns. All their ties are silk screen printed which is an old way to do it. Back in the day, it was actually done with hand blocks, today, that is not done anymore. Today, they use screens which are a lot more labor-intensive and therefore more costly than digital printing. So why does Hermès still use silk screen printing? They believe it produces richer colors in a more high-quality product and I couldn’t agree with them more which is why we, at Fort Belvedere, make all of our silks in a screen print and not digital print.

All famous Hermes ties are printed on a rather lightweight silk twill that has a little bit of gum added back to it so it has a really soft touch that is not dry at all. When you touch an Hermès tie, it has a very typical feel, it’s not super gummy like old madder silk ties, but it’s also not like a jacquard woven tie. It’s something in between that is special for Hermes and that they want to keep secret which is one of the reasons that’s vertically integrated. A true connoisseur will likely always be able to determine whether it’s a fake or not based on the way the silk feels in their hand. It’s hard to describe but it’s something you have to develop over time. Again, stay tuned for a guide on how you can identify a fake Hermes tie from a real one.

Every Hermès tie is made out of two panels of silk, not three, like most ties but also not like one like very expensive ties. The only difference is basically that you need more silk, the fewer pieces you use for each individual tie. Making a tie out of two pieces is totally fine and has no impact on the quality. The next step the fabric is cut. Hermès ties often feature specific model numbers with the logo printed in the silk and because of that, they have to be cut very accurately otherwise, the finished product won’t have lines that are very neat.

That’s another way to make it difficult for fakers because often times, they get these little details wrong but Hermes always gets them right. Once a tie is cut, you add two layers of interlining that gives the tie the feel and the springiness. Hermès ties are three fold ties and they’re hand sewn with a thread that is a hundred and seventy centimeters long, that’s about five foot and seven inches. All Hermes ties contain a little loop at the bottom and because that loop stitch ties are flexible. Many quality ties are sewn in that way so I’m not surprised to see that from an Hermes tie.

Overall, if there’s one thing about Hermès ties, I would say that they pay very great attention to detail and they focus on quality. It’s even little things such as the label which sits eight inches from the bottom and is sewn on in four spots or the model number in this little box which is neatly aligned with the edge and not crooked. Also that keeper tag is woven and not printed and has very specific elements that are different with the different ties. So a woven tie will have a different label than a printed animal tie which is different again to a heavy printed twill silk. The same is true for the backside tip lining of the tie; with printed ties, it’s a solid color versus with woven ties, it’s a kind of golden H symbol that you see and again, every tie is slightly different and only Hermes knows what they do for each specific tie. Fakers on the other hand don’t and so they often get it mixed up.

So objectively, when you get an Hermès tie, you get a high quality product. What you don’t get is a sevenfold, eightfold, nine-fold, or tenfold tie. You also don’t get a tie that comes in very many widths. By default, most Hermès ties are eight centimeters wide, they have some that are seven centimeters, and some ties that are less and in this day and age, it’s hard to find a nine centimeter Hermes tie. Also in terms of length, Hermès ties are rather limited. Their general tie is about 60 inches long or 152 centimeters, I say about because a tie is always cut on the bias which makes it very flexible but when you lay it down it’s a little stretchy and so you never get the exact measurement from each tie to another.

Online, in the store, they have a very small section of ties that are longer but they do not have ties for shorter men which is a shame because if you’re a shorter man, you need a tie that it’s shorter otherwise you end up with a large tie knot that simply doesn’t flatter your silhouette. Because of that at Fort Belvedere, we created ties in short regular and long and not just for certain models but for all the models. You’re also somewhat limited in terms of variety with Hermes ties. Yes, they have many patterns, many prints, they come in quite a few colors, at the same time, they always print it on the same silk twill. If you look at Hermès’ woven ties, they’re usually small jacquard patterns, some geometrical patterns, the occasional stripe, but you don’t find elaborate stripes there, you don’t find rep ties, you don’t find grenadine ties, or mohair ties, wool ties, they sometimes have cashmere ties, but again, it’s very limited. On the other hand, if you want to experiment more with your tie silks and maybe have a shantung Hermès or a grenadine wool silk mohair blend, Hermès is not the brand for you.

So are Hermes ties worth it? Of course the answer is it depends! If you’re someone who really likes printed whimsical motifs, these little animal prints then Hermès is definitely the way to go. Also, if you’re looking for more unusual colors such as fuchsia ties or chartreuse green maybe some orange tones, Hermès will likely have a shade that you can get. Also, if you’re a Wall Street banker or if you work in finance and you want to fit in with your company culture, an Hermès tie is certainly the way to do that. That being said, personally, I’m not a big fan of whimsical motifs on ties and I prefer different textures so Hermes ties are not the ideal tie for me. I have a bunch of them including vintage ones and new ones but frankly, I don’t wear them a whole lot anymore. The ones I wear the most are probably the woven ties, they are somewhat simple and don’t look like a typical Hermès tie. With many other luxury products, you pay a lot for the name but you get average to mediocre quality. On the othe hand with an Hermès tie, you certainly pay for the name but you also get a quality product.

On top of that, genuine Hermes ties usually yield quite high prices even when they’re used. Of course, they have to be in pristine condition which ties rarely are if you actually wear them and on top of that, you have to prove that it’s actually a genuine product which can be very hard unless you have the specific receipt with a photo of the tie. Of course, if you give all the Hermès ties you don’t want any longer to a store, they have to mark them up and ultimately, you don’t get much for used Hermes ties anyways. Also if you’re shorter than 6 foot or 183 centimeters ,Hermès ties may be too long for you and all you can do is tie a really big knot which may often not work with your head size. Also if you’re really tall men and you want more variety in your ties, Hermes is not the right place for you. I also think they’re not worth buying used unless you know very well what you’re doing otherwise, you may pay top dollar for what turns out to be a fake. Personally, I also like ties to have different widths, my favorite width is about nine centimeters or three and a half inches and it’s not a niche served by Hermès at all.

Also building up an entire Hermes tie collection can be rather expensive. If you buy 12 ties you’re already down more than $2,000. Now they certainly use high quality materials including their silk but when I was looking for silks for our Fort Belvedere ties, I met Weavers who would actually produce jacquard woven silks for Hermes and we get ourselves from the same vendor at the same quality standards yet Fort Belvedere ties cost a lot less especially if you buy more and get the volume discount.

Hermès on the other hand doesn’t offer any volume discount. At the end of the day, to me personally, Hermes ties are mostly not worth it simply because I prefer a 9 centimeter width and I prefer different textures. On top of that, I want ties in different lengths because depending on an outfit and the rise of my trousers I don’t always want a consistent tie length and Hermès is not able to deliver that to me.

That being said, if you’re about 6 foot tall or 180 centimeters, Hermes ties will work for you in height and if you like their motifs and their flashy colors it’s definitely an option for you. Bear in mind that you can always sell them at a higher price if you don’t like them anymore of course only if you can prove that it’s a genuine product and not a fake. To learn how you can identify the real deal Hermes tie from a fake, please check out this video here soon. in today’s outfit I’m of course wearing an Hermès tie however it’s not a typical printed one but a jacquard woven one in a larger herringbone with yellow and grey it changes the color with the light in a very sophisticated way and because of that I liked the tie quite a lot it ties a nice knot and it’s overall a good product that being said it’s a vintage tie and they no longer produce this anymore I’m combining it with a typical Finance or Wall Street banker outfit that consists of a white soft striped dress shirt with French cuffs and wearing gold monkey fist knot cuff links from Fort Belvedere as well as a ring with a citrine stone that is also yellow gold it works well with the cufflinks the suit is from Ralph Lauren purple label it is kind of power-suit inspired with a softer silhouette it was made by Chester Barrie several years ago and it is a typical business suit in the sense that it has these kind of rope stripes that are bold they’re light on a navy background it is double-breasted with wide lapels that have a certain amount of belly the pants are cuffed and pleated the socks are shadow striped in yellow and blue so they work together and create some contrast to the black oxford shoes at the same time they pick up the yellow tones of the tie and a citrine ring the Hermes tie is no longer available and neither is a suit but you can still find the monkey fist knot cufflinks the white linen pocket square the TV fold as well as the boutonniere and the socks in our shop right here