Should You Wear Cuffed Pants?

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! In today’s video, we’ll discuss cuffed trousers and whether you should wear them or not. In recent years, cuffs, also known as turn-ups, have somewhat fallen out of favor with mainstream men. At the same time, it’s a very classic look that has been around for a long time and will likely also be a part of classic men’s wardrobe for the foreseeable future. First of all, what are trouser cuffs? Basically, it is a folded edge at the hem at the bottom and it looks like a turned-up edge that it’s added to the pant leg. Traditionally, a cuff is not cut but simply folded from excess fabric at the bottom hem. Because of that, if you will let out the cuffs, you could always create a longer pair of pants or trousers. When you do that, you usually don’t have enough fabric left to put a cuff back on.

In that case, you simply add a faux cuff meaning it is cut separately and then sewn on to give you a little more extra room when you’re short on fabric. For bespoke trousers or suits, you sometimes also see angled cuffs which is more difficult to do and they are always faux cuffs because you cannot have a continuous piece of fabric with a faux cuff. The benefit of the angled cuff is that you don’t have a break in the front, at the same time, the back part of the trouser leg reaches almost the heel which is very pleasing. You also reveal more of the shoe. Normally, cuffed trousers are all plain hemmed and to learn more about the proper trouser length, please check out this video here. On the formality scale, cuffed trousers are always less formal than pants without cuffs. Historically, the origins of cuffs stemmed from a time where you would turn up the bottom hem of your trouser in muddy weather. In 1890, the then Prince of Wales who later became King Edward the seventh introduced the permanent turn-up which was there just for fashion reasons and was not a necessity due to outside weather conditions.

Cuffed pants became the norm for businesswear between the 1890s and the 1940s. During World War II, there was a fabric shortage and so it was decided to forego the cuff or the turn-up so you could save on a fabric and create more garments instead. Ever since the 1950s, cuffed trousers have gone in and out of fashion but over the years, they’ve always remained, they’ve always come back and likely they will always come back even though they might not be super fashionable at this point in time. By the way, the British refer to cuffs as things you have on your sleeve versus on the pants or trousers, they’re called turn-ups. Sometimes Savile Row tailors also call them PTUs or permanent turn-ups. At the end of the day, they’re all the same and we use the terminology interchangeably in this video.

So when and where do you typically see cuffs on trouser hems? You definitely see them in suits and in Italy, I’d say the majority of suits will have the cuff. They’re also popular in white-collar professions with lawyers, bankers, and the like. Cuffs can help to make a suit silhouette to look more grounded especially when you have vertical stripes such as a pinstripe or a rope stripe. To learn more about stripes, please check out this guide here and for more about office wear or how to dress as a lawyer, please check out their respective guides. In terms of the seasons, you can find cuffs anywhere from flannel suits or tweed suits all the way up to summery seersucker suits. In the collegiate realm, cuffs are favored by people who are interested in trad style and you can learn more about that style here. On the other hand, if you’re more a follower of the preppy style you’re more likely to just manually turn-up your uncuffed pants.

You guessed it, we also have a video on preppy style here. Cuffs are also often a feature on odd trousers or slacks that are worn to the office. Just think of the typical gray flannel pants with a navy blazer, for example, or other office outfits that are a bit more serious. When it comes to casual pants, you still may encounter turn-ups on chinos or khakis even though you can also find them without cuffs. When it comes to traditional workwear such as denim or jeans, you will not find a cuff because that would simply be impractical. In this day and age, a cuff on a pair of jeans would simply look weird. That aside, you can also find cuffs on shorts sometimes especially in the Bermudas, typically, they make it a little less formal so for most shorts, I don’t think they’re appropriate but it is an option that exists. To learn more about summer shorts, please check out this guide here.

So to cuff or not to cuff your pants, that is the question! The bottom line is cuffs or turn-ups are optional and it’s a personal style choice. For example in my suit collection, I have a bunch of suits with cuffs that are a little more casual, at the same time, I have three-piece suits that don’t feature cuffs whereas others do feature cuffs. The big advantage of cuffs is that it adds a bit more weight to the bottom part of your pants thus creating a nicer drape or hang of the trouser especially if you have pleated pants.

Of course, they also can help to create a visual balance, for example, for double-breasted suits or vertically striped suits but to learn more about pleated pants, please check out this video here. Cuffs definitely give you a slightly more traditional look and if you want a contemporary look with a slim fit, oftentimes, it’s better to forego the cuff for a cleaner silhouette. That being said, there’s one area where cuffs and turn-ups are always unacceptable from a historical point of view and that is formal wear. So you’ll never see cuffs on a proper tuxedo, a black tie ensemble, a white tie ensemble, or a morning coat.

Likewise, you also won’t encounter it with a stroller suit. For more details about Black Tie white tie or morning wear please check out our respective guides So if you’re buying trousers that are not for a formal occasion, should you add cuffs or not? At the end of the day, if you’re undecided, I always argue in favor of cuffs because you can always have them very easily removed at the alterations tailor. Think of it as an additional fabric that allows you to be creative with the size of your cuff but if you don’t like it, you can always get rid of it. On the flip side, if you decide against cuffs from the get-go and you later realize that the fabric is too flimsy and you would like to have a cuff in there, it’s very difficult to add one back on because most of the time, there’s not enough fabric left even for a faux cuff.

So if you decide to go with cuffs on your trousers or slacks, here are a few tips to wear them well. First of all, for a true cuff, you always need a plain hem and you want the front just to slightly touch the top of your shoe. In general, cuffs look best if they just slightly touch your shoe without creating a deep break or any puddling around your ankle. So when in doubt, a cuffed pair of pants is always slightly shorter than an uncuffed pair of pants. Having too much excess fabric at the ankle paired with a cuff can just look sloppy. Also, if your pants have cuffs as well as pleats, the break can interrupt the nice crease and the nice line of the pair of trousers.

When you wear dress boots, make sure that the pants have enough space so they go over the boot and don’t just get caught on it, otherwise, you always have some puddling going on that’s very unsightly. In terms of cuff size, there is again no right or wrong. Historically, there has been anything from under one inch to all the way up to two and a half even three inches. As with most things in menswear, it pays to stay in the middle which is typically between one and a half inches or two inches. In the metric system, that’s about 3.5 or 3.75 centimeters and 5 centimeters. According to Alan Flusser, a traditional cuff size is 1 and 5/8 of an inch for men who are 5’10” or shorter. If you are taller than that, you should go with an inch and 3/4. Personally, I like it slightly larger so sometimes I have a two-inch cuff or slightly smaller something that’s also slightly bigger but it definitely is a bit more noticeable and if you want to go for a classic look, this guideline hits the nail on the head. Of course, you can also pay attention to other aspects in your suit.

Let’s say you have very wide lapels, you should not have a very slim cuff because it simply looks not proportional. Also, you can look at the height of your collar in the back of your neck of your jacket and try to match that to the size of your trouser cuff. So what are some good ways to get started with cuffs? I suggest you maybe start with a pair of chinos because you can wear them a little more casually and otherwise, you can also wear them with a suit including a solid navy suit which is quite formal for a suit but nevertheless, it can be worn with cuffs. If you don’t wear suits a lot, you could experiment with cuffs on slightly more casual pants such as flannel pants, tweed slacks, or linen pants. So in conclusion, it pays to have cuffed trousers in your wardrobe whether it was a really casual slacks that’s just chinos or slacks that are a part of a suit.

At the same time, you never want to add cuffs to very formal ensembles because they are simply not meant for that. When you opt for cuffs, go with a slightly shorter trouser length so you have a nicely hanging pair of pants and at the end of the day, the sky is the limit and your choice or preference decides on whether you have a lot of cuffs in your wardrobe or very few but it always pays to have at least a few pairs of pants with cuffs because it just gives you a complete wardrobe. So what about you, do you prefer pants with or without cuffs? Please share with us in the comments and if you enjoyed this video, give us a thumbs up and I’m sure you’ll also enjoy the other videos about trousers which you can check out here.

In today’s outfit I am wearing a combination of cuffed trousers in houndstooth with black and white as well as a green jacket that is part of a suit I combined it with a white dress shirt with French cuffs and cufflinks with an onyx stone from Fort Belvedere which go well with the silver buckle on the black double monk strap for my shoes my tie is purple with tones of green and orange which are picked up by the Pocket square as well as my socks you can find all three of those accessories in our shop here the cuffs on this pair of pants are about 2 inches or 5 centimeters which is just a style I personally like and the weight helps to create a nice silhouette for my trousers .

Should You Wear Denim Jeans With A Suit Jacket Or Blazer?

Welcome back to the Gentleman’s Gazette! Have you ever asked yourselves, should I wear a jacket with jeans? Is it too formal, is it just right? Well in today’s video we’ll talk about nothing but jeans, blazers and suit jackets. When you can wear them, when you should avoid them and anything else you want to know about those combinations. Obviously it’s a very similar question to can I wear a jacket without a tie and we discussed it in a separate video here.

When should you wear a jacket with denim is a popular question because many men today wear it, yet it goes against traditional style rules because jeans used to be strictly blue-collar workwear. Today, men’s style is a lot more casual than it used to be 50 or 60 years ago and jeans are probably the number one worn pants by men. As everything gets more casual of course a lot of men try to wear jeans with anything else they have in their wardrobe particularly suit separates because that’s what they sometimes have to wear to work.

In an attempt to dress up their jeans or to dress down their suit they simply combine the two but it rarely works and it hardly ever looks advantageous unless you follow a few clear-cut rules. The issue of suit jackets with jeans is that it is a clash of formalities. Typically it’s a combination seen worn by middle managers who want to seem approachable yet be a cut above their subordinates.

It’s definitely a fine line to walk but dressing purposefully and thoughtfully is the key here. Personally I hardly ever wear jeans with a jacket, it’s simply not my style. But here is how you can pull it off. First of all pair your blazer or sport coat only with your dressiest jeans. That means no holes and no used look. Also it’s really important that you have enough contrast between your sport coat and your jeans. If you have a dark washed denim with a dark navy blazer it’s not enough contrast and it looks odd because it’s similar yet it’s not a suit and it’s just weird. So in general, a medium dark wash or something slightly lighter is best. It’s essential that your jeans don’t puddle and are hemmed to the exactly right length. To learn more about what length is right for you, check out this video here.

In terms of cut, a straight leg or maybe something that slightly tapered works best. Definitely avoid really baggy cuts as well as a bootcut. Also don’t cuff or pin roll your jeans because that’s simply too casual. If you still want to learn how to do it please check out this video here. Two, rather than going with a navy blazer instead branch out and maybe go with jackets that have different colors as well as patterns and materials because that’s more contrasting or interesting, but also more casual and it works better with jeans.

Good features include notch lapels because peak lapels would be too formal. You can also have patch pockets because they’re more formal than jetted pockets or flat pockets. In terms of patterns, you can go with little houndstooth pattern maybe a small micro check or a classic Prince of Wales check. When it comes to material compositions, 100% wool is okay but to make it more casual add cotton and linen blends sometimes wool linen or wool cotton blends or sometimes also a little bit of silk or cashmere for a softer hand and touch. In terms of jacket colors, you can go with lighter shades of blue, maybe a royal blue for example or even a lighter blue. Overchecks could be in red or an orange because that’s a little more casual. In the winter brown tones are great especially as a Glen check with dark brown and off-white or maybe a herringbone jacket in a medium brown. With all those lighter colors, one pair of dark washed denim really works best because it provides a contrast and it’s a classic jeans color.

The personal favorite of mine is the color green it goes really well with dark washed denim. And to learn more about why green is underrated in menswear, please check out this video here. Also definitely avoid white or off-white jackets because the denim will color off on it and the contrast is too strong. Three, make sure to wear your denim and your sport coat with casual shirts to bridge the gap formalities. Long-sleeve dress shirts are good but ideally you should avoid the most formal variations in solid white because they’re just too businesslike.

Instead maybe you go with an off-white or a green shirt maybe something with a rougher texture and maybe skip ironing to create a more casual look. Alternatively you can also go with button-down collars because they are more casual and check shirts, as well as little houndstooth shirts because they’re also more casual than solids. If you want something like a solid I suggest an Oxford fabric with a two-tone maybe light blue and white because it’s durable and more casual. No matter what shirt you choose always tuck it in because an untucked shirt with a sport coat or a suit jacket simply looks odd. Four, wear the combination of jeans and sport coat with the right kind of shoes. Black Oxfords are way too formal and not appropriate here. At the same time boat shoes are too informal and should likewise be avoided. So what should you wear? Ideally go with brown tones or burgundy and oxblood. If you want to be a little more experimental you can think about olive green, grey or maybe navy. In terms of styles a classic derby shoe is good just like those burgundy derbies or these olive green derbies on a very Parisian elegant last.

Because of the color it makes them work with a jeans and a sport coat. Alternatively you could opt for loafers either tassel loafers or penny loafers, both work. Another good options are monk straps such as those brown single monks with some broguing and a wingtip or those more fashion-forward double monks in burgundy. If you want to go with oxfords go with brogues either half brogues or full brogues because that’s casual enough to wear with jeans and it ties the ensemble together with your sport coat. Other good options include chukka boots or chelsea boots. In terms of leather texture, suede is really great to combine with jeans and a sport coat. Why? Simply because it’s a little more casual. It’s less serious and as such it ties together those two elements of different formalities So now that you know how and when to wear a blazer with jeans, the question is, when should you not wear those two items together? First of all the biggest mistake I see men make in this situation is that they pair a traditional business suit with a pair of jeans they have.

Particularly it’s that black business suit jacket or that pinstripe jacket that they wear with dark blue jeans and it just looks weird and odd. As discussed before, while some suit jackets can be worn with jeans especially if they’re more casual any kind of business suit should not be combined with jeans, that includes solid navy jackets or maybe solid grey jackets but also any kind of stripe, pinstripe, rope stripe or chalk stripe. They won’t look good with jeans. Don’t combine jeans with a double-breasted business jacket. Double-breasted is typically more formal. It has peak lapels and as such is even more formal than a single breasted blazer with patch pockets. Hence, avoid. However in recent years double-breasted jackets have become a lot more popular especially at Pitti Uomo. And if you have something that has a nice linen blend maybe with the Prince of Wales pattern and lighter colors, you can definitely combine them with jeans. Never wear a t-shirt with jeans underneath a jacket because it’s a clash of formalities. Either you wear just a t-shirt and some jeans and you skip the jacket all together or you opt for the jacket but you go with a casual dress shirt or this blend of polo shirt and dress shirt I mentioned before.

Four, never wear any kind of black shoes especially not black dress shoes with this combination because it looks out of place. Black is fine for formal business suits and office wear but not when you were jeans. Instead go with browns, tan tones, burgundy tones, greens or anything else but not black. To learn why black is one of the most overrated colors in menswear, please check out this video here.

Five, jeans with a jacket are not ideal if you want to wear a tie, a bow tie or maybe an ascot simply because it would be too formal and a clash. So if you opt for the combination of jacket and jeans forgo your tie and your neck wear instead go with a pocket square or maybe a boutonniere because that creates a visual interest and it just creates for a more polished look. For a selection of pocket squares that are perfect to be worn with jeans and a sport coat please check out our store here. You’ll also find boutonnieres there that will just round out your outfit. Six, you don’t want to wear jeans with a jacket if you want to have a formal dress shirt. That means, double cuffs with cufflinks because that’s too formal for regular cotton denim. Likewise, a solid white shirt is not appropriate.

A light blue might work. Maybe go with a different texture, a different weave that is more open so it breathes better and you’re more comfortable during the summer. Striped shirts can work especially if you have bolder stripes, wider or larger scale stripes or maybe stripes in a different color. At the same time the whole ensemble has to work together. And we’ll cover the specific skill of combining patterns especially stripes in a different video. Don’t wear jeans and a sport coat if you don’t know the dress code or if you’re unsure about the formality at the event or the occasion you will wear it to. Why you might wonder? Well, if you’re not sure about a dress code it always pays to dress one notch up.

In that case it would mean wearing your blazer with a pair of chinos rather than your jeans. Alternatively if you think that’s over-the-top you can skip the jacket and just go with a casual dress shirt and a pair of slacks either chinos or jeans depending on what you think is right for the occasion. By the way during the colder months of the year, a tweed jacket works really well with jeans simply because it’s more casual by definition.

It has a coarser weave. It has more warmer earth tones and so it’s a great jacket that is usually single breasted and has notch lapels which makes it again less formal and therefore perfectly suited for jeans. That being said there are tons of other jackets which are less formal and therefore equally as well suited to jeans as a tweed jacket. Some of them include a Panama jacket which is more of a summery jacket. Another one, the Harrington jacket and you can check out more in our Harrington jacket guide here. So in conclusion, you can definitely wear a jacket with jeans just make sure it’s casual enough and not your typical business suit.

When it comes to foot wear, brown shoes are your friend and make sure it’s not too casual but also not too formal. In today’s video I’m wearing a combination of dark wash denim jeans and a suit jacket which is part of a Prince of Wales suit with a slight brown over check. Obviously there’s a lot of contrast between the jacket and so it works. I combined it with a cream or off-white dress shirt. It has button cuffs, no French cuffs.

And I also decided to leave them undone because it’s a little warmer outside and it simply adds a more casual flare to your overall ensemble. Of course I skipped the necktie and instead I went with a very casual pocket square which is made out of a handcrafted linen with hand rolled edges and X stitches. You can find a rich selection of those pocket squares in this color or others in our shop here. For my shoes I opted for a reddish chestnut brown monk strap with silver buckles and a wingtip full brogue and I combined it with a belt in the same kind of color tone which is alligator and also has a silver buckle so everything is harmonious and works. For my socks I opted for a pair of Fort Belvedere socks in navy blue and yellow because they provide a bit of contrast to the shoe as well as the jeans yet they tie everything well together.

To learn more about how you can combine shoes with socks and pants, please check out this video here. If you enjoyed this video give us a like and subscribe to this channel so videos like this come right to your inbox. .